Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfish715
This is a technique that you can try while casting and casting and casting at any of those speedsters. It works very well and cuts down on the number of casts per hookup. I use a snapper popper or weighted popping float like the kind used for popping for speckled trout or redfish. I replace the heavy mono leader leading to the surgical tube with a more appropriate sized test. A small crimp or swivel with a bead can be used as a stop for the popper at the end of the leader. The same can be done at the top of the popper. For quick changes, you can run a short section of heavier mono through the popper and attach a duo lock snap to the bottom end while making sure the loop knot or swivel at the top of the popper is short enough to keep the popper from sliding too far forward.
Tie on a Tsunami Split Tail or Tsunami Shrimp or epoxy fly or whatever fly or plastic you might like to the end of your leader. You can use FinS or RonZ unweighted plastics rigged on a freshwater bass long shank worm hook or a hook of your choice. The sizes can vary and so can the make of the plastic. A sluggo style plastic in the appropriate size can work too.
Cast toward the swirling or breaking fish and pop or twitch or just swim the rig back. Pause if you want to to let the bait drop. As was mentioned in another reply, the fish will hit a paused/sinking bait. If the fish are chasing rainfish or spearing, they slash through the bait and then show up many yards away. The popper gets their attention.
Just remember that you'll be frustrated because of how suddenly they will appear and then disappear. By the time you get one landed, the rest of the school might be 100 yards from where they were when you hooked the first one.
Try it. It gives you greater casting distance when using soft plastics that have little or no weight. Good luck.
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I’ve doing exactly that for several years both from shore (mostly the inlet wall) and off the back of an anchored boat. It’s a great way to get some distance with a very light artificial bait. I usually use a 24-30” piece of either #15 or 20 flurocarbon leader from the popper to the bait. I found anything longer than 30”s effects casting distance and causes helicoptering of the bait. In addition to the baits you mentioned-a clouser minnow is deadly at times.
Another technique that I just picked up is to take the hook off of an A17 jig and tie on leader with one of the aforementioned baits. The weight of the jig will get your bait down deeper and the flash of the A17 with attract the fish. In fact, I’ve seen some guys use this rig with a tandem setup of closures minnows or a combination of a clouser and soft plastic—one bait is rigged off a dropper loop and the other at the end of the leader.