![]() |
![]() |
![]() | ![]() | |
![]() | ![]() | |
![]() | ![]() | |
![]() |
|
NJFishing.com Boating Use this board to discuss anything related to boats and boating in NJ |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() bought a used 9.8 four stroke outboard earlier this year. carb was run dry after every use, and i continued the same practice. will i have to winterize it? thanks for any advice.
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() You should be fine. You could take the spark plugs out, shoot some oil in the cylinders pull start a few times and put the plugs back in.
__________________
Gerry Zagorski <>< Founder/Owner of NJFishing.com since 1997 Proud Supporter of Heroes on the Water NJFishing@aol.com Obsession 28 Carolina Classic Sandy Hook Area |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Add sta-bil to fuel and run.
Start fogging thru carb until it’s smoking and stalls. Leave in the down position and it’ll self drain. Personally never understood the draining of the carbs deal.
__________________
OX66 ADDICT KUKUBABY FISHING TEAM EST. 1995 |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Read the Mfgrs manual. Some O/B do not want it fogged.
Also draining the carbs that technique dry out the seals over time. I had a Merc 9.9 and 20hp carb version from 1983 to 2008. Each one was sold and traded up to current 25hp EFI Merc When I ran the motor all the fuel was stabilized ALL OF THE TIME. I used Stabil alcohol version. SO no mater when you stopped using it for the season ( July or November) , the motor was ALWAYS STABILIZED INSIDE I left the stabilized fuel in the motor. No dry and never had carb problem Take the the O/B cowl off and use silicon based spray and cover the entire power head with it. NOT WD-40 b/c it leaves no coating. Silicon does. Cover the entire motor with it. I mean paint it with Silicone spray. And of course run the motor before that with the hose connected earmuffs to flush it for about 10 minutes. Gets rid of salt in it. Also take a look at the sacrificial zincs on the cavitation plate. Replace ( cheap) if noticeably shrunk. Some people suggest taking off the prop and grease the spline with suitable waterproof grease. Put prop back on and secure. I never did. Lastly grease up any fittings near the connection to the O/B pivot axle attached to transom bracket. Check if pull rope is appreciably worn away. Change spark plugs every couple of years too. Store motor vertically . MY PREFERENCE. Hope that helps?
__________________
Capt. Debs Tow boat captain/salvor 50 ton USCG Master NJ Boating College- Lead Instructor Big time hottie crabber ![]() |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Thanks everyone. I had stabilizer in the fuel I used this season. Will read owners manual to see what is suggested as far as fogging. Will change zinc plate and spray some silicone as well.
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() found the manual pdf online. they do not call for fogging the engine, but do require removing the sparkplugs and spraying storage oil while pulling the recoil starter, draining all fuel and cleaning fuel line, carburetor, greasing the prop, changing gear oil, and changing the engine oil.
|
![]() |
|
|