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Matt L
03-29-2009, 10:32 PM
Guys,

I have had ID/password issues and never got it set up right. I have been posting on here for a long long time. Used to be The Angler.

Anyway, bought my first boat. 14' Almuacraft Deep V with a 20hp 2 stroke Johnson. 95/94.

I am so excited and half scared to death which is probably a good thing. Been focused on getting all my safety equipment and maintenance in order.

Local boat dealership wants 400+ for a tune-up and impeller change. Seems awfully high but he is local and easy to get to. Nervous about mysterious items being added to the bill as well. He could tell me I need a new "wing ding shaft bolt" and I wouldn't have a clue.

The boat is supposed to be in very good working order, maintained and sparingly used. Never seen salt water.

All advice is welcome. And if you a guy making a moron out of himself trying to launch his red Alumacraft in the sandy hook/raritan bay area, give him a hand or a kind word.

Can't wait to get back to posting my reports.

Thanks

Matt

Tony Cav
03-30-2009, 08:54 AM
I bought a 1995, 14 ft, 9.9. side console, Grumin, bass-type boat with all the accouterments, like fish/depth finder, live well, storage, ect, 4 years ago and it was one of the best thing I could have done. Knock on wood, the only problems I have ever had has been when the fuel line is not properly attached. Other than that she has run like a dream. Crabbing in the upper Barney, hybrid fishing in Spruce Run, and Fluke fishing in the Manasquan River, in the time I have owned her she has brought me and my dog Maggie, hours of enjoyment with a minimum of maintenance issues. But I have been diligent about washing her down after any salt water adventures. This is extremely important especially for a boat not expressly designed for the marine environment.

For salt water, I fish almost exclusively the Manasquan River but sometimes it gets tricky with the wakes of the large boats. I always have to keep alert for wakes and waves. I have had it out in the Raritan bay but it was a calm morning. Once the wind picked up I have to get off the water. 14 foot with a 20 horse is going to fly but a boat that size and you have to be very, very cautious. I always keep the bow pointed in the direction of where most of the waves/wakes are going to come from. DO NOT EXPECT ANYONE TO BE COURTEOUS OF A SMALLER BOAT. In fact there are many people out there who will intentionally try to wake you.

Matt L
03-30-2009, 10:04 AM
Thanks. I figured I am mostly ok up through Sandy hook bay and the rivers. Have to watch the weather and other boats. I'm not a thrill seeker by any stretch and just want to able to be out there. I have rented the skiffs from the local places and have done well.

On a calm day I can see hitting raritan bay or launching from that area and staying in the more protected areas.

GregV
03-30-2009, 10:20 AM
I have fished 16' deep aluminum boats for quite a while. River, bay, and on occasion the ocean. Be very careful of weather, especially in a 14' boat which is less forgiving. I would also stick to the river and bay in a 14'er. Be careful of weight trim, anchoring technique etc, The big boats will not always respect the fact that you are smaller with less freeboard so be proactive in avoiding dangerous situations with other boats.

Re the tune-up/impeller, the price seems reasonable and I would do it on an older motor with unknown maintenance history. A problem on the water can be expensive and dangerous. A little prevention is a good investment. A tin boat can be a fun and economical way to participate in local saltwater fishery.

hammer4reel
03-30-2009, 10:25 AM
there is alot of the raritan bay that has great protection for small boats.
Launching out of Keyport you can make it to MANY good fishing spots.
You can catch Flounder, fluke, bass and blues there.
And can also go the back and fish the triangle area.
watch your weather and like LHL said NEVER expect the bigger boats to be courteous.

I fished many years in a 14 footer with a 30 on it and had ALOT of fun

Capt. Debbie
03-30-2009, 12:01 PM
I have had a 14' Aluminum since 1982. The old 20hp Mercury I purchased in 1986 new and ran until Fall 2007. I did carb work 2-3 times, ignition work once but NEVER never did any water pump work on it. Upgraded to a 25hp 4 stroke Merc in Spring 2008.

It's was run EXCLUSIVELY in salt water for over 20 years. Keyport, Morgan, Navesink, Shrewsbury, Sandy Hook Bay, Barnegat Bay and ocean side to the Cedars on fluke drifts on good weather days. I sold it after i bought the Mercury 25hp.

It depends on the weather that day and the boat traffic (NEVER USED ON WEEK ENDS). You never get too far from shore anyway.

It's got a 12 vdc dual-cycle battery, 12 gallon fuel tank, Lowrance FF, Garmin GPS, Icom 25 watt VHF w/ hailer, and MOST IMPORTANTLY a 2000 gph Rule automatic Bilge Pump in it.

KEY-
Pick your days wisely. If you're getting your ass kicked or have a visible following sea DON'T keep going. That simple.

Capt. Frank

Matt L
03-30-2009, 01:17 PM
Thanks for the great responses so far. This whole thing is sort of a huge deal to me having wanted a boat forever and not having the resources to get it done.

Regarding a couple items. I am looking to purchase a portable handheld VHF. I do not have electric on the boat. I have a trolling motor and big 12v battery but no DC distribution type panel set up. I may build one but that won't be for a while. Any suggestions on these?

Regarding the bilge pump. I do not have one but need to add one. Can these items be directly connected to the battery with a switch or do I need a distribution panel or something similar to do this as well?

Gerry Zagorski
03-30-2009, 01:20 PM
Good advice above.... I would not venture too far with the boat especially this time of year with the water temps as cold as they are and the unpredicatble weather we have in the spring... Stay in protected areas out of the wind and err on the side of caution until the water warms up and the weather becomes more stable..

I've seen more then a few small tin boats get swamped and people having to be rescued out by Sandy Hook... It usually occurs in the area around the tip of the hook and the false hook where the water can be very choppy because of the rips... The low freeboard on these type of boats is usually the cause for the swamping.

As said above, pick your days and avoid areas with heavy boat traffic..

You should definately take some time to get used to this boat since it's new to you... You will quickly learn you and your boats comfort level and limitations....

Gerry Zagorski
03-30-2009, 01:41 PM
Best way to wire a pump is directly to the battery.... You should have it controlled by a float switch and also have a manual overide switch so if the float fails you can turn it on maually.

Gerry Zagorski
03-30-2009, 01:43 PM
Here is a wiring diagram for you...

Life's A Beach
03-30-2009, 03:23 PM
PM PeanutButter&Jelly John

He took a class last year for mechanical repairs. You'll learn alot from the class and will save alot of $$$ doing your own work.

"Leaking Weep Hole" was my favorite line that I've heard of as an ambiguous charge.

Duffman
03-30-2009, 07:50 PM
Put water into the boat with a hose. Dont go nuts, just enough to cover the bottom with an inch. Check to see if any rivets are leaking by looking at the hull bottom. Trust me on this, been there - done that :eek:

Matt L
03-30-2009, 10:15 PM
I may try that. I really do believe this boat is solid.

I have been looking to run the electric and think I have a handle on it but not entirely sure where the wires will go. Under the floor would be great but nervous about trying to unfasten the floor and attached compartments. I may be able to run straight through the center but not sure if it will work or If I can get a bilge pump under there or how it will be be fastened..

Saw a cool wiring harness and switch set up and am comfortable building a box for it all. Just not sure where to put the wires. I really don't want to start taking the floor up. Am I missing something really obvious here?

hammer4reel
03-30-2009, 10:23 PM
I may try that. I really do believe this boat is solid.

I have been looking to run the electric and think I have a handle on it but not entirely sure where the wires will go. Under the floor would be great but nervous about trying to unfasten the floor and attached compartments. I may be able to run straight through the center but not sure if it will work or If I can get a bilge pump under there or how it will be be fastened..

Saw a cool wiring harness and switch set up and am comfortable building a box for it all. Just not sure where to put the wires. I really don't want to start taking the floor up. Am I missing something really obvious here?


alot of times you can run them up under the gunnels, you want to keep 12 volt power wires away from your transducer cables so you dont get interference on your fish finder

Matt L
03-30-2009, 10:42 PM
Do you mean to unfasten the gunnels and run underneath? I have to see if they will come off but that would make it easy

hammer4reel
03-31-2009, 01:06 AM
Do you mean to unfasten the gunnels and run underneath? I have to see if they will come off but that would make it easy

no you should be able to just look under them from inside the boat, depending on what type of rail you have,
there is usually room except the boats that have the 1" tube type gunnel
put a pic up of your boat and could prob tell you better how to do it

Toggytime
03-31-2009, 06:45 AM
Hey Matt,
Congratulations on your new boat. My first boat was a 14 footer as well. They are great boats to learn on. Couple tips I figured out was to make sure you know what you boat will do and how it will handle waves. I wouldnt reccomend going to far out till you have a feel for the boat. Try to back up as little as possible. Smaller boats tend to take water over the stern when backing up, and they fill up quick. Starting around the end of April you will start seeing bluefish in the bay If you put the boat in Keyport and drive past the sailboats you fill find all the bluefish you want. There close enough to the shore where you can fish comfortablly and you will catch a ton. Also if you put in the raritan river either South River or Saryville and head towards the bay on the right hand side you will see an old wooded drydock with a small boat you can get in there and it holds a ton of stripers in the spring.
Good Luck
Doug

Capt. Debbie
03-31-2009, 12:11 PM
As to the Bilge Pump. Get the largest GPH pump you can pfit. I use a 2000 GPH.

Small boats sink MUCH faster and you want the pump to empty quickly.

I have the pump directly in front of the drain plug. I cut out the false deck floor so it lays directly on the aluminum. I do not have an override switch as I have no place to mount the switch. I have just the a float switch. A compact box type. Not the floating arm switch. The floating arm type switch takes too much room in a cramped area.

Help some?

Capt. Frank

Matt L
03-31-2009, 12:37 PM
Frank. That makes sense and I think I can do the same. I have that cut out as well. Also agree with the 2000gph. Why screw around with less.

I also bought the suspender type auto-inflatable vests for myself. expensive but should be comfortable.

Attached is the boat. The gunnels turn to the outside of the boat so I am not sure about putting wiring out there considering the constant exposure to the water but maybe if I can secure it in there well enough. Not sure the best method

fishbox22
03-31-2009, 02:53 PM
Matt
Very nice boat. Nice children also.
My first word is life jackets.
The Town of Rumson has a ramp that is a yearly fee, when I used it I think the cost was $80.
The channel out of there was very shallow at moon tide you would have a problem getting to the ramp.
I don't know if it was dredged, It "was on the list".
The Navesink river is a great place to fish, crab, or hang out.
There are Flounder Summer and Winter, Blue Fish, Stripers, Weakfish, Planety to keep you happy.
Several places to pull up on a beach and have a BBQ or what ever.
You can spend most of your time around the Oceanic Bridge, No Wake area.
That does not mean everyone knows that.
I fished that river for many years and caught many fish and crabs.
It is one if not the cleanest rivers in New Jersey.

As for bilge pumps I had two, one on a float/manual and one for Manual only.

DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE PLUG IN THE BACK. I think everyone has forgotten that once.
Go to a parking lot when it is not busy and learn to back up.

Good luck, Be safe,

Matt L
03-31-2009, 03:22 PM
Thanks. Bought the lifejackets last weekend. somewhat comfortable basic types from cabella for about 10 bucks a piece. Of course got myself the auto inflate suspender type. I have most of the safety equipment except the vhf radio. Will probably get a portable for simplicity. Looking at a Uniden 250 for about 100 bucks. Amazing how quick all this stuff adds up. I'll be in an extra grand before the boat hits the water. 400 for tune up impeller+safety equipment 200+wiring I need to do 150+radio 100 + bilge 125....

Thanks for the advice. I have fished the area quite a bit and done well but mostly from shore. Also have rented boats from the local places and of course the party boats.

Capt. Debbie
03-31-2009, 03:30 PM
Rumson ramp is now $100. Just paid it. You must use the channel. At low tide if you come straight out there is an island that protrudes E-W from out of the water and you'll need wheels to get over the top of it. The stick channel exits into the main river right in front of the Ocean Bridge a few hundred yards further west of the ramp's langoon.

RUNNING WIRES:
I created a raceway to run wires aft and forward. Get some thin wall PVC tubing. 3/4 inch is ideal. Bigger if it'll fit. It can be glued or not glued in sections to fit underneath. And run the PVC between the seats and floor if you can. MUST be done on a warm day. The PVC is quite flexable. More so if heated. But when winter cold, it becomes extreme brittle and will snap.

I keep my 12 gallon fuel tank forward in the box to better balance the boat on plane. 12 gallon x 6#/gal= 72 pounds. Balancing my fat a*s in the back slightly for better planing.

My dual cycle battery, is kept within an ordinary black plastic battery box, is located aft under the O/B tiller and next to the bilge pump/switch. I have all my electronic equipment power lines going into the battery box.

Last year I installed a 6 position fuse block under the battery box lid and ran all the equipment, excluding the bilge pump, to the fuse block. Came out very clean.

Capt. Frank

Matt L
03-31-2009, 03:54 PM
Frank.

I was thinking of trying the same sort of thing. Use the PVC to snake under the floor to the front of the boat where the battery will be. It's a big battery and the trolling motor is up there so that is where it will likely have to stay. Run the connections from the battery to the back of the boat. Still trying to figure out what gauge wire to use. Probably 10-12 outdoor wire.

Then open a small hole in the floor just in front and to the side of the back seat. Run the pvc though it and into a box. Buy a 5 switch panel and connect everything inside the box. Seal every hole with epoxy. That is the path I am on right now.

It all depends on being able to snake the pvc to the front of the boat.

Capt. Debbie
03-31-2009, 04:43 PM
two concerns:

#1 Marine wire is very very multi strand for flexibility. Unlike standard NEC household wiring like stranded wire THHN or THHW it will be wiggling from boat movement. The insulation for these are fine for a marine environment, but you need a starnded (never solid) wire with lots of strands.
Example is auto jumper cables which are extremely flexible b/c the # of strands in the #6 or #8 AWG wire used is much higher. Open it up and it looks like each conductor strand is a little thicker than a hair. Household wiring may carry the same current- but it is not meant to take the bouncing and over time and individual conductor strands will break and create hot spots inside the wire.

Item #2 WIRING AMPACITY:
#18 AWG copper conductors 5 amps
#16 AWG copper 10 amps
#14 AWG copper rated for 20 but de-rated by NEC to 15 amps
#12 AWG copper is good for 20 amps
#10 AWG copper is good for 30 amps

Not many things in a set up like we are taking about are high current draws. Most things will be far less than 5 amps like GPS, VHF's, and FF's. We are not talking radar and a half dozen spreader lights.

My experience is the best wiring connections are made by- soldering, liquid electrical tape over that solder and finally cover that all with shrink tubing.

I hope this may be a lttle more helpful.

Capt. Frank

Capt. Debbie
03-31-2009, 04:45 PM
Breaker panels are poorly suited. They take up way too much space and aren't really intended to get wet regularly.


Frank.

I was thinking of trying the same sort of thing. Use the PVC to snake under the floor to the front of the boat where the battery will be. It's a big battery and the trolling motor is up there so that is where it will likely have to stay. Run the connections from the battery to the back of the boat. Still trying to figure out what gauge wire to use. Probably 10-12 outdoor wire.

Then open a small hole in the floor just in front and to the side of the back seat. Run the pvc though it and into a box. Buy a 5 switch panel and connect everything inside the box. Seal every hole with epoxy. That is the path I am on right now.

It all depends on being able to snake the pvc to the front of the boat.

fishbox22
03-31-2009, 07:20 PM
Matt
You sure got a lot of information here, Yes it is expensive.
Don't go cheap on safety.
A GPS is nice but not a have to have now, A depth sounder I would say is a now or as soon as possible item.
I don't know if you got a safety package with your boat. If you had to buy life jackets I would expect you did not.
You will need an anchor, Anchor rode (line).
I believe you need a licence to operate any boat in NJ.
An instruction course is available on this site or several other places.
A Coast Guard Aux course or Power Squadron is available in many towns.
They are not expensive and keep you aware of right from wrong. NOT THAT EVERYONE KNOWS THAT. When you operate your boat you should be Defence all the time.
Take the boat out a few times with someone else that can help you before you take your children.
Your BIO does not tell what town you live in.

Matt L
03-31-2009, 10:18 PM
Everyone is great in this thread. I appreciate everyones help and hopefully I can return the favor at some point.

The boat has most of the safetyequipment but I wanted to replace the standard orange life vests with more comfortable ones for the kids and adults.

I have pretty much everything including a flare gun. Need the VHF. Have a fishfinder but need to get the electric run.

I didn't know about the course but looks like it is mandatory. I am sure I can benefit from it. I will likely get the boat out in two weeks in a local lake here and get used to it. Gotta get the electric worked out. Then stripers and blues !!!

Like I said earlier, I am real nervous about the whole thing and extremely safety conscious. 4 years in the military will do that for you.

Capt. Debbie
04-01-2009, 11:08 AM
Capt. Matt- check your private messages.

Capt. Frank

fishbox22
04-04-2009, 06:10 PM
MATT
I am sure there are people that would be glad to go out with you until you learn how to operate everything.

Matt L
04-07-2009, 10:55 PM
Again, thanks for everyone's help.

Here is where we stand so far. Motor is at shop for the tuneup.


Used half inch pvc and snaked it under the boat. Used a T to pop it up under the front bench with the battery. Used the T to continue the run for the front lights. Lights are blocked from the back by the trolling motor and this would be a pain to take on and off so I think a back pole light may go in to. There is already a hole drilled.

Marine Wire - searched for the best deals I could because it is more expensive then you might think. Snaked 12 gauge for the power and am gonna use 14 gauge and 16 gauge for the accessories. All the wires terminate inside the back bench compartment.

pumps - bought 1500 gph rule for bilge, float switch, and livewell pump. Boat has a 20 gallon livewell so why not set it up for use. peanuts maybe? Pump equipment is being run via short separate pvc. I will need to secure the pvc, just have to find the right solution. Its not complicated.

So all the wires terminate under the rear bench storage. Have a 3 way switch for the bilge, 5 way switch with socket for the accessories livewell and lights.

Still have to figure out how exactly the bilge hose will exit the boat.

Box for the switch is next. Thursday probably. Have to finish by Saturday when I pick up the motor.

Thanks everyone

Matt L
04-13-2009, 09:29 PM
Boats all done and took it's first ride today at Lake Nockamixon. All electronics worked! Bilge. live well pump, fishfinder, front and aft lights. Ran everything.

Boat seriously moves with a buddy and my two kids. Drifted shiners and night crawlers but not a bite. Water in the high 40's. Talked to guy who said he sees folks get stripers out of there on chicken livers. I have caught them on livers before in the delaware. Marked a lot of fish near the bottom in deep water but no takers. Good first day

Almost killed my buddy pulling the boat out of my driveway which slopes at a sharp angel down to the house. My buddy hooked up the trailer to the boat but forgot the chains and left the wheel down. We were just moving it to the steet to put the outboard on. Well the front trailer wheel pops the hitch off and the boat comes flying down the driveway. My buddy somehow gets out of the way and the boat crashes in the house. The corner of the transom is bent and needs to be tightened back up. Boat had no leaks so all is well. Very scary. Kids could have been back there.

Thanks to everyone for your help. I will be out there on the bay in a week or two.

Capt. Debbie
04-14-2009, 11:24 AM
Getting dingers on the boat are part of regular use. At least you have a decent story to tell about it. Scary, but no one got hurt.

What's it run on the GPS flat out speed?

Also if you run the boat in salt walt, do a thorough wash down. Of course flush the O/B. And if you use the electric motor wash that thorough and run the prop in a bucket of tap water to clean out the crevices. Electric motors are tricky. Many just remove them when on the brine. They do make special saltwater ones. But according to a story I read, with a thorough wash down the standard electric motors will continue to work fine - as you as you give it TLC to forget its salt water adventure.

Capt. Frank

PS Don't forget Sea Tow Insurance. Maybe I'll see you out there? Not running the boat for another month or more. But will get there eventually.

Tony Cav
04-15-2009, 02:14 AM
Don't forget about a fire extinguisher!!

seadog
04-15-2009, 12:32 PM
Matt, Good luck with your new boat.There is great fishing available in that area with that size boat.Some already suggested a hand vhf radio and I agree safty + you can talk to other boats.I would reccomend ones that float.They run around $149 and if you drop it in the drink you will have a chance to get it back.You might also want to consider a life belt.Many of us will not where liejackets because they are uncomfortable but the life belt is about the size of a fanny pack. If you wind up in the water,pull the string and the vest inflats. I always where one when out there alone. Best price I've found is online kodiack outfitters $59. $200 is not cheap but it might just save your life. Good luck

seadog
04-16-2009, 07:41 AM
Matt good luck with your new boat.Someone already suggested a portable vhf radio.I would go with one that floats.That way if you drop it in the drink you have a chance or recovering it.I also use a lifebelt.Life jackets are to bulky.The life belt is about the size of a fanny pack and is activated by pulling the cord.Once this is none it will inflate instantly.The radio I've seen for $149,best price on the lifebelt was on line at kodiack outfitters $58.$200. is a pretty good chunk of change but if saves you life its priceless.Better to have and not need then to need and not have.

Capt. Debbie
04-16-2009, 11:43 AM
Speaking of PFD's inflatable supenders are about as comfortable as they come. You can wear them under your exterior jacket. Some have hydrostatic release besides the pull cord.

If you can fit it put in a full size VHF radio. 25 watts vs. 5 watts and a real antenna gives you great range( about 10x the transmit distance) and never dead batteries. Even a handheld with a manufacturer's adapted hooked up the a real(not whip antenna) VHF antenna will give you much more range than that crappy unity-gain rubber duck antenna. Mine's hooked up to the GPS to do automated DSC distress calls( w/ my MMSI # when USCG starts to monitor).

Don't forget effective sound making device & flares too?

Got all this? By the time you get done loading it up, you'll need a bigger boat to carry all this crap. :)

Capt. Frank