View Full Version : emptied fuel tank (results)
Bass_Appeal
05-28-2015, 12:13 PM
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss279/buck_blaster/Mobile%20Uploads/20150527_171251-1_zpsky5zc90u.jpg (http://s583.photobucket.com/user/buck_blaster/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150527_171251-1_zpsky5zc90u.jpg.html)I bought my boat in 10' the guy before me, I don't know if he ever drained the tank. and am having some problems and thought maybe the fuel. so I decided to empty the tank since it only had a 1/4 tank left . now every season since I owned the boat I always left the tank at about a 1/4 to just under half tank put stabil in there wrapped it up for the winter. any how here is a picture of what the fuel looks like and I think it looks pretty damn good!
Bass_Appeal
05-28-2015, 09:13 PM
today i did a compression test
left port bank
115
115
117
starboard
125
124
125
Duffman
05-29-2015, 01:01 AM
What issues you having? What motor?
Tough to see the fuel condition with the light at that angle. Any sediment or water at the bottom? Odor?
Fwiw I've been storing tanks for years with whatever fuel is left in them after the last trip..... 1/4 tank, 1/2 almost full. Personally thinking the whole condensation thing is bs.
Capt. Debbie
05-29-2015, 11:07 AM
I agree with the condensation stuff. I have found no problem no matter what level it does its winter sleep in.
I do know (and it makes sense) that empty storage will dry out seals. Used to run the O/B and motor cycle engine with fuel hose pulled until it ran dry. Was in storgae instructions. After a few years all kinds of carb problems. Not sure if fuel injection fairs as bad.
What issues you having? What motor?
Tough to see the fuel condition with the light at that angle. Any sediment or water at the bottom? Odor?
Fwiw I've been storing tanks for years with whatever fuel is left in them after the last trip..... 1/4 tank, 1/2 almost full. Personally thinking the whole condensation thing is bs.
Bass_Appeal
05-31-2015, 05:19 PM
the fuel had no setiment , no water and i ran the fuel through a paper filter , into containers and the paper filter didnt have any type of dirt or debri on it , clean as a whistle !
as for the problems , i push my throttle to go get up on plane and it has no power , then it will keep gettig little burst of power then back to a crawl ....then get a decent burst of power for maybe quarter mile or so and lose the power again .....out of water it sounds good , under load is when i get the crap !! i cleaned my map sensor , fuel regulator, drained fuel, replaced fuel lines , cleaned throttle body , vst, new filters , new plugs , fuel pulse pump done last year, checked all grounds(cleaned them with wire brush,) i checked the spark getting spark , cannot figure it out !!
hookset
06-01-2015, 06:16 PM
Did you clean the carbs?? As you know I am having similar issues! Attempt to take boat for a spin the other day showed similar problem! Ran great and I weaves trough the boats in shark river but when I went to throttle up in inlet I had no power!!!! Boat went from 2300 rpm to 3000 rpm with throttle wide open and only increased In Speed maybe 3 knots! Usually 3000 is about half throttle this it was full! Also noticed boat is running much lower rpm at ideal causing to to stall out!!
Mine is on her way home for me to give some long over due TLC and fix problem! If I can find it!!
Check you prop make sure you aren't spinning on hub! With boat off engage into gear and attempt to spin prop! (You should not be able to)
Keep this thread up to date with what you have done ill do same with mine maybe we can figure our problem out
Bass_Appeal
06-01-2015, 06:51 PM
def not the prop ! cause it will get sudden burst and when it gets the burst it runs pretty fast then it will bog out down to a crawl again it also seems to run a little better with cover off ..i wondering if it is computer related ....
hookset
06-01-2015, 07:02 PM
if it runs better with cover off i wonder if you aren't running hot!!! when you say running better do you mean normal, or still intermittent burst just further apart?
Gerry Zagorski
06-01-2015, 10:19 PM
Year and make of engine please.
Bass_Appeal
06-02-2015, 12:09 AM
96' merc 225 efi , injected
Bass_Appeal
06-02-2015, 12:11 AM
if it runs better with cover off i wonder if you aren't running hot!!! when you say running better do you mean normal, or still intermittent burst just further apart?
further apart.....but still intermittant seems i get a little more time if good running with cover off byt still bogs out
Bass_Appeal
06-03-2015, 07:54 PM
engine is missing , all three left bank cylinders , pulled the plugs one at a time with engine running, no difference on any cylinder left port bank ....all are sparking but the sparks are shooting everywhere !! what can it be , a bad ground ? short? cdm ? im puzzled ! right starboard bank all made a change when pulling those wires one at a time !
dfish28
06-04-2015, 11:51 AM
Coil base timer under the flywheel, or power pack possibly...?
Feeling a bit more close now- I wound up having to throw both in and viola...!
Bass_Appeal
06-05-2015, 07:14 AM
im leaning towards this (shift interrupt switch )
TROUBLESHOOTING IDLE STABILIZER SHIFT SYSTEM
When outboard is idling IN NEUTRAL, shift switch circuit is in the OPEN position and system is INACTIVE.
When outboard is shifted INTO GEAR, shift switch circuit CLOSES. BIAS VOLTAGE from each switch box is changed by a 6.8K (±.34K) resistor located in the WHITE/BLACK lead between the switch boxes and the shift switch. The shift switch is now CLOSED and completes the circuit to ground. THREE DEGREES of timing advance occurs when the shift system works properly.
If the resistor is OPEN or the shift switch circuit stays OPEN, the THREE DEGREES of advance will not occur when the outboard is shifted into gear AND maximum timing at W.O.T. will be RETARDED THREE DEGREES.
If the resistor should SHORT TO GROUND, engine timing will be overly advanced and damaging powerhead detonation will occur.
Connect a timing light to No. 1 spark plug lead (top, starboard bank). Start the engine, and allow it to idle above 600 RPM, then retard the ignition timing by slowly pulling forward on the spark advance lever. Observe that the system is functioning by noting a rapid spark advance (as much as 9° from the idle setting) as the engine slows down to below approximately 550 RPM.
The idle stabilizer is not repairable. Should the idle stabilizer fail to function as described, it will require replacement.
90-898303 2-27
Notes
Bass_Appeal
06-09-2015, 08:38 PM
replaced the shift interrupt switch and no help !! took the wire off the center #4 cylinder and rescrewed back on to coil and the sparks stopped flying all over the place ! but the plugs are still fouling which to me are still not firing correctly
Duffman
06-10-2015, 02:20 AM
Trying to understand what you mean by "sparks flying all over the place "
Bass_Appeal
06-12-2015, 07:33 AM
Trying to understand what you mean by "sparks flying all over the place "
when pulling the wires off the plugs while running ,(seeing if the cylinders made any change ) I was getting shocked , and when I grabbed a rubber gripped pliers instead of fingers the spark was not only going through the rubber handle but you can see the sparks flying trying to hit anything it could. at least its sparking !!! lol ...but I cant figure out why its not firing properly , im gonna do one more thing, adjust the sensor on the fly wheel for timing.....
Gerry Zagorski
06-13-2015, 09:08 AM
A friend of mine has the exact same issue with his Mercury 2 stoke carbureted engine. You pull the plug wires off one side of the engine at idle, you'd think it would make the engine run rough or stall and it makes no difference what so ever... Put the plugs wires back on that side and take them off the other And the engine stalls. He's had it to a few Merc mechanics and they can't figure it out. Engine runs a little rough at idle and seems to run fine up to 4000 rpms and after 4000 it starts to surge.
Damdest thing and will be watching this post to see what you find.
Bass_Appeal
06-14-2015, 09:18 PM
today , i took off the throttle body again , then the reed block , the reed block seems to be in great condition ....the reeds are tight , i decided to put the body on with out the cover to see how the injectors where firing , they seems to be firing just fine . sprays even in all 6 injectors the reeds open and close fine , its getting fuel .....now im leaning to the coils or the computer ..bringin to the dealer with a list of everything ive replaced and tried .....see what they come up with ...im going through (captain of my own boat withdrawls ) and very very aggrevated ( upon pulling the reed block it opened the crank case and let me tell u its is clean as a whistle inside the case pistons are immaculate , the cylinders look great ,and u would think it was a rebuilt engine ! )
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