View Full Version : Need reference for Volvo Penta mechanic
Walleyed
05-14-2014, 05:25 PM
My parents have given me their '87 Bayliner Trophy 2160, powered by a Volvo Penta AQ125/270. My father took immaculate care of it over the years, I don't think it stayed overnight in the water more than 15 times. In 2009 it was winterized at the marina where they purchased it, backed into the barn and has been in storage since then.
I'm looking to get it back on the water for striper/fluke/whatever fishing this summer and want it checked out by a trustworthy mechanic prior to floating it.
thanks in advance,
Jim
Capt. Debbie
05-15-2014, 11:32 AM
Sadly Volvo was notorious for being light on service in northern NJ. Good gear, just poor equipment support.
Your 5 year old gas is an issue obviously- get rid of it. I would also suggest getting a new battery (or two), fresh spark plugs, clean backfire flame arrestor and a buy set of earmuffs attached to a hose and give it as shot. That tank gas should not be used. Maybe sparkplug wires & belts too?
Check fluid levels as usual. Should have had fresh crankcase oil if properly winterized.
Then start it up on the trailer. See what you have.
Does it crank? Waterpumping steady out? Not at all? Voltage out good? Idle smoothly? etc. And make a very detailed list of observations. .. then move to I/O unit.
Hope that helps. Give a mechanic a place to start.
My parents have given me their '87 Bayliner Trophy 2160, powered by a Volvo Penta AQ125/270. My father took immaculate care of it over the years, I don't think it stayed overnight in the water more than 15 times. In 2009 it was winterized at the marina where they purchased it, backed into the barn and has been in storage since then.
I'm looking to get it back on the water for striper/fluke/whatever fishing this summer and want it checked out by a trustworthy mechanic prior to floating it.
thanks in advance,
Jim
dennis461
06-06-2014, 09:03 PM
I would check a few things BEFORE starting it.
"winterize" means different thing to different people :-(
1. the raw water pump impeller is probably rock solid and will tear itself up sending rubber pieces into the heat exchanger. I have an old one in good shape you can borrow.
2. the carb is a simple design, open it up clean out any gunk since it probably had dried up gas in it.
3 open the tilt mechanism and make sure no water got in there and rusted any parts. It is a very expensive part, fill it with new grease.
4 is there still oil in the outdrive? dipstick is right on top, large headed screw.
bring it down here and I'll test drive it for you!
Mine is a 1983 Renkin AQ131c/270 20 cuddy cabin
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