Winterizing????

[GetANet]

My son bought a 18ft Center Console this past spring It's a older boat with a 70hp merc two stroke What do we need to do to winterize it??? It sits on a trailer in the driveway. Hoping to get out this saturday and then wrap it up for the season Thanks for the advice in advance the boat is used to fish raritan bay.

[NJSquatch]

i do the following on my boat.

- add marine stabilizer to the fuel and run it through the whole system the last trip of the season
- flush engine
- fog engine through the carbs
- pull spark plugs and shoot fogging oil into cylinder (don't over do it, 2-3 squirts), bump the starter to distribute the oil, spread some fogging oil on plug threads and reinstall plugs
- lightly spray head with wd-40
- vacuum out all lines (live wells, bilge, pee hole, intake vents in lower unit, etc)
- vacuum out any standing water in the bilge (get all the water out!)
- change lower end oil
- grease fittings
- grease prop spindle
- remove items that will get damaged in freezing temps
- pull the batteries and store inside
- put dryer sheets inside hull and compartments to keep the vermin out
- cover it up, be sure to cover the prop so water doesn't collect and freeze

there might be extra things to do with a salt water boat (fuel filter?). i am sure others will chime in.

[Gerry Zagorski]

If you have a live well and or raw water wash down, you want to run some Pink RV anti freeze through the pump and those lines.

[Duffman]

This is what I do on my O/B powered boat......

-Run Stabil in fuel last trip of season.
-Flush engine on the hose and fog thru throttle body until she’s smoking pretty good.
-Change lower unit oil
-Pull prop and wrap plastic bag around lower unit.
-Take out batts and put them on a trickle charger in garage.
-Blow out fish boxes and livewell drain with compressed air.
-Dry out bilge with sponges/towels.
-Remove hoses from washown pump to let it drain.
-Throw on winter cover and call it a day.

Leave O/B in the down position and it will self drain.. no need for antifreeze.
Some guys swear by filling the fuel tank to prevent condensation. I’ve never done it. Whatever is in the tank at the end of the season is how I leave it. Never an issue with me. I change 2 fuel water separate every spring and a set a plugs and she’s good to go.

[GetANet]

Thanks guys for your input. I was wondering about the fuel tank the most since i've never had an internal tank. We are planning to get out saturday and try for some stripers and will probably be wrapping it up next weekend. I figured on stabilizer for fuel and replacing filter as well as removing the battery. I guess it would be a good idea to do lower end oil too. Appreciate the help!

[Gerry Zagorski]

Thanks guys for your input. I was wondering about the fuel tank the most since i've never had an internal tank. We are planning to get out saturday and try for some stripers and will probably be wrapping it up next weekend. I figured on stabilizer for fuel and replacing filter as well as removing the battery. I guess it would be a good idea to do lower end oil too. Appreciate the help!

Good idea to put stabilizer in the fuel and let it run through your lines and into the motor during your last trip.

As far as the lower unit oil the only reason it makes sense to do it now rather than wait till spring is because if you find any issues, you can have them taken care of before spring when you’re ready to launch.

I’d wait on the filter till spring. Start everything up with the old filter and once you have everything going, replace it.

You can remove the battery if it makes you feel better but not necessary. Just make sure it’s fully charged when you out the boat up and take one of the terminals off of it so you don’t have any unexpected drain on it over the winter and you’ll be fine.

[bulletbob]

Good idea to put stabilizer in the fuel and let it run through your lines and into the motor during your last trip.

As far as the lower unit oil the only reason it makes sense to do it now rather than wait till spring is because if you find any issues, you can have them taken care of before spring when you’re ready to launch.

I’d wait on the filter till spring. Start everything up with the old filter and once you have everything going, replace it.

You can remove the battery if it makes you feel better but not necessary. Just make sure it’s fully charged when you out the boat up and take one of the terminals off of it so you don’t have any unexpected drain on it over the winter and you’ll be fine.

Depends on where you live. North western NJ I would remove it.. Near the coast not or south jerseyso much. Personally I would never leave the battery out all winter unused,, They freeze in those cells at all, and they are junk.. I suppose if it stays 20 and above at night you're ok, but up here, we regularly go 10 below, and I have seen 30 below more than once since I have been here.

We remove our batteries here, and if you have any doubts at all, I would in NJ as well, if the boat is going to sit unused for 3-4 months.. bob

[bulletbob]

another thing.. If at all possible, consider getting one of those metal $1000-$1200 carports on the driveway for the boat.. I did several years ago and it was the best boating money I ever spent.. No more rot, no more mildew, no more worrying about the transom etc.. A boat is made to be touched by the water on the bottom only. Water IN the boat is a bad thing, and leaving it in the weather is never any good, unless its shrink wrapped... bob

[Treebeard63]

Thanks guys for your input. I was wondering about the fuel tank the most since i've never had an internal tank. We are planning to get out saturday and try for some stripers and will probably be wrapping it up next weekend. I figured on stabilizer for fuel and replacing filter as well as removing the battery. I guess it would be a good idea to do lower end oil too. Appreciate the help!


In my experience most of the issues encountered in spring re-commission are related to fuel gone bad.. so you are wise to be concerned..Gerry and others as usual give great advice.. I would also suggest if possible always running non-ethanol fuel in it.. especially before storage..but if its handy, i would burn it year round.. in my case I have to drive several miles out of my way to get it, but I find it well worth it down the road.. and not just in my outboard, but all the yard equipment as well.. when it comes to gas sitting around a while, ethenol is the devil